Please note sharpeners, the Bonika Shears Ocean line are a bit tricky to sharpen.
Don’t just jump in there and sharpen business as normal or you will be in big trouble. You can recognize these new Ocean Shears by the icy pale blue screw with our fish logo on it. These blades are so different that received directions from the factory on sharpening. I plan to have videos addressing the sharpening issue on these shears and will have some type of criteria for sharpeners, regardless of their sharpening style, to present to stylists to show they are knowledgeable about these edges. We hope stylists will also be aware that their shears are different. Please subscribe to the Bonika Shears Youtube channel so you will see these videos when they come out.
Of the 5 new shears in the Ocean line, there are three styles each with a different set of sharpening approaches.
The regular Bonika Ocean cutting shear appear normal enough with a modified sword edge front blade and a convex back. However, these shears are designed to slide cut easily through wet or dry hair in the back and crisply point cut without pushing in the front area. The front blade should be convex sharpened to a 55 or 57 degree angle and the back blade only the last 1 inch or so is sharpened to this angle. The back half section near the pivot is blunt and polished smoothly and only the front half sharpened. The rideline is perfectly flat. For best results the blunt section should be polished with a felt wheel. The hair is designed to slide over this blunt section to make slide cutting with the one sharp edge easier and less destructive to the cuticle.
The short Ocean Curve has the same configuration of the half blunt back blade. This is great for slide cutting and slithering. The back blade with the blunt section transitions to a 57degree angle by the time it reaches the tip. The front blade is 55 degrees. I would suggest the rideline would be repaired with the archhone stone for best results. It was designed flat in the factory before it was curved.
These two “Ocean WAVE” texturizers are some of the “no-line” type texturizers. They are blunt on the straight back blade. Actually it is a 10 degree angle. The front blade, (the teeth side or comb side) is convexed at a 55 - 57 degree angle. The ride is perfectly flat, not ramped as in some texturizers.
Other questions you may have when sharpening might be.
Will it void the warranty if an “unauthorized” sharpener sharpens these shears? No, ANY Bonika shear can be sharpened by any sharpener without voiding the warranty.
Can the alignment be adjusted on these shears? Yes and no. These shears are tappan forged 440C with added cobalt making them harder than normal 440C. The handles in most cases would be safe to tweak, however…. The Bonika Ocean shears as ALL the Bonika shears are not to be adjusted without prior authorization. If you have any Bonika Shear that you feel needs adjusting, call first. If we authorize you to adjust the setting or handles and the shear breaks, we will replace it for the customer. If you do not call us, the risk is on you. Some Bonika shears we know from experience can be easily tweaked and others can’t. We have had a few discontinued models that have an alignment issue after a few years and if it is one of those models we will replace it with a new shear.
Who will be selling these shears? These shears will be primarily for the beauty industry sold through sharpeners and direct by us. However, other companies like Sam Villa, Sensei etc may have similar shears so be on the look-out for these.
Does it matter what equipment I use to sharpen these? The factory has made it clear these were made and sharpened on a flat hone type system and with a Waterstone for the ride. I am only accomplished in this method of sharpening, myself, but use what you have.
If I am not comfortable sharpening these shears can I send them to you? We sharpen for other sharpeners at a wholesale price plus shipping. If you have begun to sharpen them we will critique your work and give you suggestions for the future. Anytime you have a shear that you rather not sharpen or cannot sharpen feel free to send them to us. We ourselves when we can a major issue with our Shoto shears send them back to the original factory. We are all on this journey of better and better sharpening together.