Custom Fitting Shears - How to Select the Right Shear

I made a discovery. After years of buying a size 8 shoe, I discovered I should be wearing a 9! I have more toe room, the heel doesn’t wear blisters and the arch falls in the right place. Guess where my new favorite shoe store is? It’s the store where they took the time to correctly fit my shoe. It’s the same with stylists. Maybe you have always cut with a 5” but a 5.5” is a better match. Or perhaps you cut with an even handle shear and an offset handle will relax your hand and shoulder more. It’s important to custom fit shears.

First, hold your current shears like you typically would when cutting hair. If you cut in a “palm to palm” position with your thumb toward the floor you are going to be happier with an “offset” handle shear like the Bonika Jazzy since this will put your elbow and shoulder in a lower more comfortable position. If you put the back of your hand toward their client’s head with your wrist bent and your thumb in an up position, an even handle or regular handle shear like the Bonika A55 Silk may feel best. For those of you hold your shears in a multitude of positions, try a swivel thumb like the Bonika Twister or the new Bonika Rocker.

Next, lay the shear on the palm of your hand. Place the thumbhole in the fleshy part of the thumb and lay the shear along their longest finger. The tip should fall somewhere in the last unit of their longest finger (or “traffic” finger). A shear that is too short will cut their knuckles; a shear that is too long will cut them between their fingers. This is the right measurement for the shear you use in interior cutting and basic cutting. Other techniques like scissor over comb, trichology cuts and texturzing may require longer or shorter shears.

After the style and length of the shear has been established, decide on your most common cutting habits. If you slide cut, you will need a shear with a Japanese style convex edge rather than a German style bevel edge. If you slide cut on hair extensions or very coarse hair, you need a convex edge made with high quality hard steel. You will most likely be satisfied with the cheaper scissors and German bevel scissors if you are just cutting straight across the hair shaft such as a barber. However, a blunter, coarse scissor blade can cause damage or split ends. The initial results may be satisfactory, but the future health of the client’s hair can be in jeopardy.

If you are attempting any advanced techniques, you should probably upgrade to a more expensive style shear. Cutting ability is only as good as the tool. Investing in a good shear is investing in yourself.

Remember, one shear does not fit all hands and techniques. Just as your closet has many different shows for different purposes, your shear case should have a variety of shears in order to save you time and add to your repertoire of creativity

Written by Bonnie Megowan of Bonika Shears. 1-888-290-3393. 

27th Jun 2016 Bonnie Megowan

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